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Between August 27 and September 3, 2005 we spent a vacation in St. Martin in the Caribbean. The landscape is beautiful, with palm trees, beaches and lush hillsides. Reminders of the island’s volcanic origins can be found everywhere, including the pancake-like holes of cliffs by the ocean front. Steep hills adorned with lush vegetation dot the landscape, an indicator of frequent rain falls. The highest peak rises to over 400 metres above sea levels. The sand on the beaches feels magnificent, and the waters appear mostly very clean. Apart from tourism, few industries have left any marks on the island, apart from some aluminum mining, refining and the production of Guava Berry rum, the local liquor. There is one exception: The local banana plantations have apparently fallen victim to unsustainable practices.

The island is only 26 square miles in size and administered by the Dutch and French governments. The French part is slightly larger than the Dutch, and a lot more tidy. The conclusion suggests itself that France invests more in its island protectorate: Better road maintenance, garbage disposal, planning, and public safety are the result. Infrastructure investment pays; this lesson became very obvious during our brief visit.

Planes were our reason for visiting. The international airport is located next to the beach, with the Sunset Beach Bar next to it. Onlookers can enjoy close-ups of large planes about to touch down. Our son spent many hours there. The weather remained hot but dry throughout our stay, beginning at dawn. Air conditioning in the rented car was an absolute must, as were the top hats and caps worn.
The local population of about 75,000 is predominantly of Creole origin. There are Dutch and French minorities, nestled in their own enclaves, such as Oasis beach. The school system is clearly influenced by European customs. The black youngsters wear uniforms, with yellow shirts and turquoise pants. Other than for shopping purposes, the grown inhabitants do not appear to mix much. The natives indulge in a variety of religions and beliefs, animism, Christianity, and Islam (about 1,500 people). The potential for social unrest is suggested by security guards in grocery stores and the scars of the jewelry sales people along the main street. Poverty surfaces everywhere, particularly on the Dutch side.

But people take it in stride. The elderly chap riding on his bike, one hand on the handle, the other on a bottle of Heineken provides a case in point. That beer is king, evidenced by the plane in Heineken colours. Life is comparatively easy when all the clothing you need all day is a pair of shorts. Some knowledgeable locals suggested that most inhabitants do not work more than absolutely necessary to make a living.

The island and its neighbours appear well-prepared to weather any major storms, including hurricanes and tsunamis. The day after our arrival, New Orleans was hit by Katrina, and the local newspapers instantly produced locations of designated shelters. The Dutch military made an appearance by ship and landing boats, ready to intervene with emergency management when necessary. The European stamp on society dominates all facets of the community.

One of the biggest drawbacks of getting around on St. Martin is the overabundance of cars, occasionally in horrible conditions. Break shops and mechanics in general are kept busy by potholes and steep hills. The local food tastes excellent, including fish, shrimp and ribs. In the French part there is a weekly barbecue cook-off, with delicious offerings. The duty-free availability of goods provides the major economic engine that keeps the island going. Most of the tourism revenue seems to flow from the cruise ship passengers flocking to the Capital several days of the week. They stroll down Main Street, checking out the dozens of jewelry stores and duty-free booze available.

Understandably there was a big uproar in the local press during our stay over discussions by the Dutch government to impose sales taxes on selected goods. The universal outcry: This is going to kill our economy! On the other hand, such deliberations are unavoidable, for it seems clear that local services are heavily subsidized from the mainland. The locals do not make enough money to fix the roads.

Tourist spending is kept high by the great variety of casinos and tour offerings, including fishing and visiting neighbouring islands. We took two trips, to Anguilla and St. Barthelemy. The first of these is a British protectorate, immediately evident by the left-hand side traffic on the roads. Anguilla appears to be a sleepy place compared to St. Martin, much flatter and dominated by resort development. The best beach of all during this Caribbean vacation we found on this island: Azure blue water, with the softest sand imaginable. The only discord in this beach paradise was the stern warning provided by a sign at our entry point: Absolutely no topless bathing!

That was not the rule on St. Barthelemy, a French protectorate. Several prominent Hollywood stars own properties on this small upscale island, including Jim Carrey. Among the three islands, this was the cleanest and best planned. All industrial and commercial activities have been concentrated in one designated and secured area. The garbage is compacted, even old cars. No wreckages or half-finished houses mar the landscape, as in St. Martin. The lifestyles mimic continental France, including food and dress. The population we saw was predominantly Caucasian. The towns and villages are beautifully designed, with no flat roofs or other faux passes. Several exclusive (spell: expensive) beachfront resorts can be found here, in addition to a prominent nude beach.

We left with mixed feelings: Sad at the short duration of our stay, but also slightly worn out by the oppressive heat (by Canadian standards). The seasons do not change much in the Caribbean; hurricane season provides the major excitement. Such risk of storm damage serves to discourage thoughts of investing there. But a return visit remains a distinct possibility.

One of the most striking things about this Puglian city that is situated 42 kilometres north of Bari on Italy’s eastern coast, is the ancient port that was founded strategically along old communication routes. Once considered one of the most important ports in the region, it is impossible not to be impressed with the scenery. Up to 600 boats bob up and down in the water at any one time and there is a row of restaurants that offer typical Pugliese dishes such as Orichette with cime di rapa and polpette di pane al sugo – pasta with broccoli, and meatballs in a tomato salsa respectively. In addition, there are several bars, churches and in the distance, the spectacular cathedral. The port is also where, during the warm summer evenings, groups of friends meet up, sit on the ancient wall aligning the harbour or on one of the wooden benches, to talk about their day as the street lights illuminate the night sky.

Close to the port and in a favoured position overlooking the shores of the Adriatic is the 11th century Romanesque cathedral that is dedicated to the town’s patron saint, San Nicola Pellegrino, the young pilgrim who died in 1094. Saint Nicholas arrived in Trani as a sign from God to “enrich the town”. Where the cathedral now dominates was once the Episcopal Church of Santa Maria where Saint Nicholas fell ill. Open to the public, the inside of the cathedral is equally as fascinating and inspiring. Intricate architecture and decorations honouring a number of saints are plentiful. The Crypt of San Nicola that was started in the early 12th century and finished in 1142 is a spacious and well-lit room consisting of 28 columns of Greek marble. The cathedral is also used as the back-drop of several scenes in the new film by Colombian director Andres Arce Meldonado. Billed as the Italian Oceans 11, it stars actors such as Don Johnson and Gerard Depardieu, as well as popular Italian actors Barbara Bouchet and Giancarlo Giannini who played Mathis in Casino Royale.

To the left of the cathedral is the equally impressive Castello Svevo. Built by Federick II in 1233, the castle is situated in Piazza Manfredi, the square named after Manfred, Federick’s illegitimate son. Its four imposing towers are set at each corner with the smaller towers facing towards the sea. Once used for military purposes, the castle has also been used for a variety of public functions such as the wedding of Manfred and Elena d’Epiro in 1259. During the 16th century the castle was used as a top security prison and a couple of centuries later, in 1799 it was used for less joyous reasons, being the place where noble Tranese who were considered too idealistic were killed and their bodies were then thrown into the sea. Today the castle has a distinctive stone bridge that leads to its main entrance and provides an insight into days gone by. The central courtyard has displays describing its varied history. Surrounded by a deep moat that was once directly linked to the sea, the castle houses a museum where it is possible to see the remains of Frederick II’s marble decorations, along with other artefacts that were recovered during careful restoration work.

Trani is divided into two parts, the main square Piazza della Repubblica with its roads that lead to each part of the town’s outer quarters, and the alluring centro storico that is often referred to by French visitors as a “Little Paris.” The ancient cobbled streets from via La Giudea to via Porta Antica twist and turn through stone arches adorned with dedications to the Madonna, and the rows of historical stone built houses, some of which date back to the 18th century. In the middle of the centro storico, time feels as though it’s standing still. The sheer narrowness of the streets and echo of footsteps on the cobbles beneath your feet add to the feeling of having been transported back to an earlier century. Perhaps this is why the centro storico is regularly used as the location of wedding photographs when the bride and groom pose in front of ancient doorways. It is among the streets in the historical centre where many small and characteristic churches can be found such as the Chiesa di San Donato that’s situated close to the tower clock dating from 1473 which has the town’s coat of arms emblazoned upon it. Then there is one of many Jewish churches, the church of Santa Maria Novo, built in 1244 that proudly boasts as being the oldest synagogue in Europe, and the 10th century church in via San Martino that is incredibly small yet atmospheric, the floor of which is two metres below street level. At night, the centro storico becomes bewitching with an almost ethereal feel except for the occasional voice that can be heard coming from one of the old yet sturdy apartments that were constructed using marmo di Trani, the well-known local limestone.

Heading towards the opposite side of the port is where the public gardens that date from the 19th century are situated. Offering paths lined with flowers and rows of pine trees, as well as an aquarium and fountain that are enjoyed by a group of tortoises, the ville communale overlooks the ocean below and provides a particularly striking panorama – to its right is the monastery of Colonna, and to the left, the cathedral. Regularly attracting crowds of families, particularly on sunny Sunday mornings, the ville, that in itself has plenty of history, provides an area of tranquillity for a quiet and relaxing read or a pleasant stroll. It is here where the Monumento ai Caduti rests, a monument erected in 1923 in honour of those that fought during World War I. Sitting proudly on either side of the monument are two replica canons from World War II, one of which weighs a staggering 2000 kg. However, it’s the medieval style arc, known as the Fortino di Sant’Antonio, located to the left of the entrance to the gardens that really catches the eye. Built in 1400 the arc is said to have once been the location of a raised bridge and today houses a small and long-abandoned ancient church. It leads to a platform that presents another splendid view of Trani’s port and cathedral from a very different and fine angle.

Slightly out of the town centre on the coast road in the direction towards Bisceglie, is part of the town known as Colonna, home to the church of Santa Maria della Colonna and alongside it is the monastery, both of which were founded in 1098 and once belonged to the Franciscans. The outside of the abbey has decorative elements typical of Roman architecture with rows of large arcs as well as a charming rose window that is arguably the central focus of the monastery. In the church itself, the Crocifisso di Colonna, the Colonna Cross is conserved. The cross is associated with an intriguing story. In 1480, the cross that is adorned with an effigy of Jesus was stolen by a group of Turks. As they made their way with the cross by boat, they suddenly came to a standstill. One of the group, fearing the cross was blocking their way, attacked it with a sword causing the nose of the effigy to Jesus to bleed. The cross was hurled into the sea and was later found halfway between Trani’s port and the monastery. Every year at the beginning of May there is a dedication to this important day that is celebrated with a grand procession through the town’s streets. Today the monastery is used mainly for cultural events and concerts whereas the church hosts a number of events including weddings. In fact last year the church was the venue of the wedding between a popular Italian comic and his Tranese bride.

The weekly Tuesday market that is situated slightly out of the town centre is always bustling with locals and is certainly worth a stroll, if only to hear the local dialect Tranese. However, it’s the summer months in particular that really depict Trani in a mesmerising light, mainly due to the series of summer concerts and 3-day festival in honour of Saint Nicholas at the end of July. This unique Pugliese town has an innocent yet fascinating appeal and is situated in an unspoilt part of Italy that does not disappoint.